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A Whittling Primer

A little fawn I carved on the end of a stick
A little fawn I carved on the end of a stick

Whittling is a subtractive process, whether you want to fashion something out of a block of wood, or simply just a contemplative activity, watching the curls coming out as the knife’s blade slides through a stick.


After whittling for sixty plus years, I want to share a few pointers for any novice wanting to pick up the hobby, since it often happens that someone gives it one try only to give up soon after, being frustrated by a lack of “success”.


Whittling is not rocket science, but to get some degree of enjoyment out of it, there are a couple basic elements that need to be met.

While one could whittle or carve most any wood, there are some species that are especially suitable and therefore preferred even by professionals. I will mention three: basswood, (also known as linden or lime in the UK), butternut, and one that is not well known but a particular favorite of mine, catalpa. It’s best to stay away from figured woods like curly maple or burls, as the grain makes them difficult to carve, although not impossible.


I don’t know if I would call any of these “soft woods”, but they have a tight, even grain that responds well to a sharp knife or chisel and  leaves a shiny surface behind.


Two whittling knives, the one on the bottom over 40 years old, the blade considerably reduced after many sharpenings. To the left, a water stone with two sides, one 1000 grit, the other 6000 and next to it a piece of leather charged with honing compound.
Two whittling knives, the one on the bottom over 40 years old, the blade considerably reduced after many sharpenings. To the left, a water stone with two sides, one 1000 grit, the other 6000 and next to it a piece of leather charged with honing compound.

And that brings me to the cutting instrument, whether it’s a whittling knife, a pocket knife or any other sharp-edged tool one wants to employ. Perhaps the most important factor is the edge on that tool, sharpened and honed properly, regardless of the kind of wood one wants to tackle.

Even if that tool comes sharp and ready to go right out of the box, it is imperative that one should have the sharpening/honing accoutrements and the knowledge to use them properly, for during use the tool’s edge dulls and needs “touched up” every so often.


For starters, a whittling knife should have a blade of carbon steel, which takes and holds an edge well. I like the Pfeil #1 (formerly #8) but I also made several knives using discarded power hacksaw blades - the kind that are made of high speed steel throughout, as opposed to bi-metal ones that have just the cutting edge of high speed steel.


I made this knife using a piece of high speed steel from an old power hacksaw blade.
I made this knife using a piece of high speed steel from an old power hacksaw blade.

When it comes to sharpening, right off the bat, don’t ever run to your bench grinder with a knife; you will ruin it for sure or do more damage that will be hard to correct. Such a grinder would overheat and burn the thin edge. An exception is the Tormek that is water cooled but the cost factor makes it impractical for sharpening a 2-inch blade.


A diamond lap is useful for removing material fast, in case there’s a nick in the blade, or after many sharpenings the angle needs to be corrected. Next, I would have either an oil or a water stone 1000 grit followed by a 6000 grit or a hard black Arkansas stone, and finally a leather strop and some honing compound.


The practice of sharpening and honing a tool comes with experience, although it does help to actually see someone do it. There are some jigs out there that are supposed to take the guess work out of it, but I find them cumbersome.


Now that you have your whittling knife all ready to go and have just received the package of basswood carving blocks from an online supplier, before you make the first cut, assuming that you have drawn the pattern or have it in your mind, you need to “read the grain” and establish which way it runs.


The grain is the sum of channels that run vertically through a tree’s trunk, and through which the tree gets its nutrients from the soil. The best way to explain this is to bring the old illustration of “petting a cat”, you don’t do it from the tail towards the head. Similarly, you don’t go with the knife “against” the grain, but rather with it.


Having said all this, I think it’s important to address safety. I enjoyed whittling from a young age and I sliced my fingers plenty of times before I learned a basic principle: never pull the knife towards your hand! But always away from it. Of course, it’s a good practice to use one of those special Kevlar gloves that the knife won’t go through, but you might find yourself someplace away from home and your carving glove, when the mood or inspiration hits…


For the same reason I like to cut the wood block longer than the finished piece requires, so that I have a “handle” to hold onto while carving it.

Whether you want to carve hobos, caricature style figures, or different animals, there are many resources available,  especially for whittling, giving front and side views of the subject. It is also helpful to have access to a scroll saw for blocking off the large areas that need removed.


Personally I prefer the style of carving where the facets left by the blade are evident and I avoid using any sanding or smoothing of the surface by other means, believing that it gives a piece character and that indelible hand-made quality.


When it comes to finishing, the method I use depends on the piece: if it just sits on a shelf, a coat of wax would suffice and would alter the natural color of the wood the least. If it’s to be handled, polyurethane would protect it best. If I’d want to emphasize the grain and darken the color, an oil finish would work, like tung oil. Some pieces I might choose to color, and for that I would use either acrylic or tempera paints, the latter requiring some top coat of a clear finish.


As far as wood resources, there are many specialized places that deal in all kinds of timber, from domestic species to exotic ones from as far as Africa, India and Australia in various thicknesses and lengths.

There are also several companies that sell whittling knives and sharpening stones, just “let your fingers do the walking” and ask Google.


Other invaluable resources are local carving clubs that usually meet once a month and are formed of enthusiasts who are happy to receive new members and to share knowledge and camaraderie. Usually they have show-and-tell and annual exhibits as well as special guests that do demonstrations.


I will close by wishing you happy whittling and remind you one more time: NEVER pull the knife towards your hand, but always away from it!


The Nativity, my latest whittling project, just in time for Christmas
The Nativity, my latest whittling project, just in time for Christmas

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

1 Comment


It is beautiful from the top of their heads to the shoes on their feet.. I love the remaining bark on the foundation also. Great work... Multi-talented.

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